Maison CHAPAL returned to Florence in January for a new edition of Pitti Uomo,
continuing a longstanding presence at both the winter and summer edition of the fair.
This edition marked the introduction of the Friping collection,
presented alongside new pieces complementing CHAPAL more traditional lines.


With the Friping collection, Maison CHAPAL brings back a distinctive tanning process developed by the tanneries of Millau,
which gained international recognition in the 1980s.
As its name suggests, these intentionally crinkled leathers are achieved
through a specific tanning method combined with a meticulously controlled preparation process.
This technique was made iconic by Roberto Cavalli, whose bold approach to leather left a lasting mark on fashion.


The collection is also a personal tribute. In 1983, Jean-François Bardinon met Roberto Cavalli in Florence,
where he would later return year after year to present his creations at Pitti Uomo.
The meeting was arranged by Freddy Mangin, a tannery agent and close friend despite their forty-year age difference.
Passionate about leather, fashion and automobiles, he naturally brought them together.
The purpose of the meeting was to present CHAPAL production:
Merino shearling with Chapalac finishing, manufactured by the ateliers.
Beyond the commercial aspect, Jean-François Bardinon discovered in Roberto Cavalli a free-spirited mindset and an unrestrained creative energy. From Cavalli’s villa overlooking Florence, to a drive in his Jaguar XJ12 and a dinner at Harry’s Bar along the Arno,
he retained from that evening a decisive source of motivation.
The following day, in the studios, Roberto Cavalli signed a supply agreement for Spanish Merino shearling.


The models of the Friping collection originate in the 1980s,
the period during which Jean-François Bardinon designed his first creations upon joining Maison CHAPAL.
Among them:
– The Bob, initiated with Maison Rody, a leather specialist based in the Sentier district in Paris.
– The Concorde, produced as a one-off by the CHAPAL Manufacture and worn by Jean-François Bardinon for his Concorde flight
to New York at Mach 2.02, representing the family House.
Crafted in crinkled sheepskin leather, the Bob and the Concorde fully embody the 1980s aesthetic:
oversized shoulders and generous volumes, creating silhouettes that contrast with the more fitted lines of usual collections.
True to the Maison’s philosophy, each historical model strictly respects the codes of its original era.
The Friping collection thus stands as one of the most unconventional expressions of CHAPAL style.
Alongside Roberto Cavalli, Claude Montana also emerges as a key influence of this powerful aesthetic.


Presented at the show, the Friping collection entered into dialogue with new pieces
designed to complement CHAPAL permanent wardrobe, including:
The 1968 Overall
The Upper East Side Vest
The D1 Bomber Jacket
The Chapalac Cap
…alongside other pieces to discover on the website.



Photo credits: John Michael


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