UNIQUE CREATION – CHAPAL x CAULAINCOURT

At the end of 2024, CHAPAL unveiled a unique reinterpretation of its USAAF Flight Jacket,
enhanced by an original patina by Caulaincourt.

Faithful to its history and its exceptional expertise, CHAPAL remains one of the few luxury French brands
to tan and manufacture its entire collection in its hometown workshops in the Creuse region of France.
For its part, Caulaincourt cultivates its unique identity by promoting the art of men’s footwear,
with collections with a wide range of styles and uses.

For this experimental collaboration, Caulaincourt has revisited the USAAF  jacket in brown glossy sheepskin leather and gold silky sheep fur collar, adding some creative touches. The origins of the jacket worn by US Air Force aviators during World War II are fully acknowledged as a reference.

The creative additions are reminiscent of the illustrations of American squadrons painted on flying machines and GI jackets.
Later, in the 50s, each biker gang also wore its “colours” embroidered at the back. A ritual dating back to the creation of “Hell’s Angels”, whose identifying mark was winged skull and crossbones with a biker’s helmet,topped with the name of the town
or local section.

Russian artist Yann Avril lent his pen to transcribe Alexis Lafont’s inspiration by creating the designs,
which were embroidered in gold thread.

On the left breast, a leather patch reminds the aviators’ “name plate” to feature the pilot’s name with four bees as CAULAINCOURT logo. They suggest trophies of the victorious US Air Force aviators.

At the back is an embroidery depicting a pin-up sitting on a bomb. This playmate is also featured on a padded cotton gabardine lining, screen-printed in orange ink.

This is followed by the typical patina of the shoemaker, which is applied to the entire jacket by hand using a cloth.
The brush is used only to reach inaccessible areas such as the seams. Patina is applied using liquid inks specially developed for leather. The iteration of the layers, coloring and bleaching, gives a natural effect.
Each dye is the result of a very specific mixture, making this piece unique.

Jean-François Bardinon, President and Artistic Director of CHAPAL comments:

“I gave Alexis full-freedom, as his original design is aimed at a different clientele to that of CHAPAL. These embroidered designs inspired by the Art-jacket are very interesting and the patina contrasts with our tanning techniques: the jacket is interpreted.
CHAPAL’s American roots in Brooklyn allow us to play with history and its symbols.”